RENAISSANCE CUSPED EMERALD RING
Western Europe , 16th century
Weight 3.2 gr.; bezel 10 x 9.1 x 6.5 mm.; circumference 58.4 mm.; US size. 8.75 UK size R
Rings with high quatrefoil bezels became fashionable in the beginning of the sixteenth century. Already in the previous century, goldsmiths regularly employed cusped bezels of four, five, six or even eight cusped prongs in solitaire gem settings. In the sixteenth century, the ring with four cusps became more elaborate.
The slender, beveled hoop of this elegant ring bears a foliate shoulder and a high, lobed bezel set with an emerald. The four prongs that secure the green stone loop back to form a quatrefoil blossom, visually uniting the prongs with the bezel while plastically articulating each side. The restrained ornament and excellent state of preservation lends the ring a pleasing sculptural presence.