Diamond Ring with Twinned Hearts
Highly prized, pink diamonds are among the rarest of colored (or “fancy”) diamonds. Here two pink diamonds are joined in the shape of a heart. Cupid’s arrows pierce the heart which is flanked by two gold forget-me-knot flowers. The heart is topped with a crown composed of nine white diamonds. Both romantic and regal, this ring captures the spirit of love.
Rose gold hoop shaped like foliage, chased on the exterior and plain on the interior. On either side of the forking shoulders is a forget-me-not flower. The ends support the bezel made of a silver heart set with twinned pink diamonds, crowned by eight white diamonds in varying cuts and set in silver with rose gold backing. Two cupid’s arrows in gold appear to pierce the heart. The ring shows signs of wear and is in excellent, wearable condition.
London, Collection of Diana Scarisbrick.
Scarisbrick 2007, p. 88, fig. 118; idem,Le Grand frisson. Bijoux de sentiment de la Renaissance à nos jours, Paris 2008, p. 194.
Following the Portuguese discovery of new diamond mines in Brazil in 1725, diamonds dominated the jewelry market in the eighteenth century. The royalty and aristocracy of Europe were especially festooned with the diamond craze.
Since the late fifteenth century, diamonds became increasingly desirable expressions of love and marriage as they were symbols of virtue and constancy. The heart remained the most popular symbol of love, as seen here in this ring, which was either given in betrothal or at a wedding. It is bedecked with the symbols of love: the twinned hearts represent the alliance of marriage; the crown denotes loyalty; cupid’s arrows and the forget-me-nots signify the inception and flowering of love. Twinned hearts in various colored gemstones and in combination with diamonds were en vogue in the eighteenth century. For variants see: Scarisbrick 2007, pp. 84-89.
For the history of diamonds in the eighteenth century, see: Scarisbrick, Diamond Jewelry 700 Years of Glory and Glamour, 2019, pp. 127-159; note especially a similar heart-shaped blue diamond belonging to Queen Marie-Antoinette of France (p. 159). Though diamonds had long been prized for their whiteness, by this period colored diamonds found greater appreciation. Pink diamonds (today: “fancy color diamonds” the rarest and most prized of the colored diamonds) were found first in India in the Golconda mines. See: Ogden, Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems, 2018, pp. 218-222.